Aït Ben Haddou stopped me in my tracks the first time I saw it—rising from the russet earth like something conjured from a dream, or maybe a half-remembered film scene. And you know what? It probably was a half-remembered film scene. This ancient ksar has doubled for everything from Berber countries to fictional kingdoms, but…

When you hike Todra Gorge, you walk on rocky trails under 300-meter-high limestone cliffs with a cool river flowing below. As a Moroccan who has hiked these paths, I have found hidden paths through palm groves and shared mint tea with Berber families. I have found the gorge’s soul beyond the tourist noise. This guide,…